Mt. Lhotse or “South Peak” in Tibetan. The fourth highest mountain in the world at 8,516 metres, after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. Part of the Everest massif. situated at the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest, and the South Col, a vertical ridge...
Mt. Lhotse or “South Peak” in Tibetan. The fourth highest mountain in the world at 8,516 metres, after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. Part of the Everest massif. situated at the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest, and the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000m, connects the summits of the two mountains. The Lhotse South Face is also known as one of the largest mountain faces in the world.
Lhotse has 3 summits, main summit at 8,516m, Lhotse Middle (East) at 8,414m and Lhotse Shar at 8,383m. Lhotse is best known for its proximity to Mt. Everest and the fact that climbers ascending the standard route on that peak spend some time on its northwest face. It is the smallest prominence, only 610m, of all 8000m peaks. Lhotse is famous for its tremendous and dramatic south face which rises 3.2km within 2.25km horizontal distance making it the steepest face of this size in the world. The route progresses through Khumbu icefall. Moving further, we will reach Camp I (exists at the top of the Khumbu icefall) surrounded with crevasses. From Camp I, we will pass through lateral moraine to west ridge that welcome us with a close-up view of Lhotse which is the perfect place for Camp II. Leaving Camp II, we will reach near to Lhotse wall by crossing glacier and ice cliffs where we will set Camp III. Camp IV is located near South Col. From Camp IV, we will proceed through steep rock sections to the summit. The climbing route for the Lhotse follows the same route as the climb on Everest, including the aptly named Lhotse face almost all the way till Everest's Geneva Spur from where it follows a steep climb through a long couloir to the summit. It is an extremely difficult climb and rarely attempted.
NOTE: Record set by Xtreme Climbers.
Xtreme Climbers is the first company to organize the very first 100% successful First Ski Climbing Lhotse Expedition which was in 2018 Autumn without 0% problems.
We are probably the first company to make a 100% successful Climbing Skiing record above 8500m.
First 100% successful Ski Lhotse Duo record set by Hilaree Nelson (Captain of The North-Face) and Jim Morrison USA on 30.September.2018 Autumn.
The first summit on Mt. Lhotse 8516m after 1991 during Autumn season.
During The First Ski Lhotse expedition one of our Climbing Sherpa ( Ila Nuru Sherpa ) became the first youngest climber to scale Mt. Lhotse 8516m at the age of 21.
Lhotse South Col Route Camps:
Khumbu Icefall: The most difficult part of the climbing Lhotse. It is a steep glacier with obvious implication of large crevasses and treacherous unstable seracs making navigation complicated and riddled with high objective danger of falling ice. The route is not that technically challenging and is essentially a strenuous trekking route with a little objective danger once past the Khumbu icefall. There is an obvious danger of high altitude sickness complications and changeable, unpredictable mountain weather. The beginning of the climbing period, Icefall Doctors and Xtreme Climbers Climbing Sherpas Guides set the route through the icefall installing ladders across crevasses and along vertical serac ice walls for efficient and easy climbing. These arrangements make climbing of the Khumbu icefall possible, efficient and relatively safe especially early morning before sunrise, when the ice structure is well frozen. Khumbu icefall is very dangerous in the afternoon due to its western aspect.
Base Camp: (5,200m/17,060ft.) Located on a moving glacier at 5,200 meters above sea level surrounded by Pumori, Lola and Nuptse where you will spend up to 40-45 days. Conditions in base camp will remain consistent during the climbing period and will consist of shifting and moving tents and platforms as the ice moves and melts.
Camp 1: (5900m/19,357ft.)Technical and the most difficult section of a south side climb since it crosses the Khumbu Icefall. During the climbing period we attempt to spend only 2 nights at Camp 1 for acclimation.The Icefall is 2,000 feet of moving ice with deep crevasses, towering ice seracs and avalanches off Everest west shoulder. Our plan calls for us to move up and down directly from camp 2 for safety once you have proper acclimation.
Camp 2: (6400m/20,998 ft.) Camp 2, Located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of West ridge Safe and sheltered with tremendous views of Lhotse. This is the station we will spend most time after base camp. All the companies set-up their main climbing camp for the duration of the climbing period here with tents for individual climbers along with required necessary kitchen and dining tents. Camp 2 is the main acclimatization camp and the base for camp 3 acclimatization climbing and the final summit attempt.
Camp III: (7100m/23,294 ft.) The effects of high altitude and are not yet using supplemental oxygen almost all climbers are feeling difficult climbing the Lhotse Face to camp 3. Lhotse Face is steep and the hard Ice, but the route is fixed with rope and the angles can range from 35 to 45 degrees. It is a long climbing distance to camp 3 which required for acclimatization prior to a summit bid. You will spend 2 nights at camp III for acclimatization and the summit push.
Camp IV: (79000m/25,918ft.) Camp 4 is the last camp, it is easily accessible by a majority of climbers without supplementary oxygen. A flat area covered with loose rock and surrounded by Lhotse in the South. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp 4, The rocky sections called “The Yellow Band” a layer of marble, phyllite and semi schist rock and the “Geneva Spur”, an anvil shaped rib of black rock. Both of these areas are set-up with fixed ropes.
Summit: (8516m/27, 940ft.) The climbing Sherpa guide will set fixed ropes up the wall of ice. The last section of the climb from camp 3 to camp 4 takes 12-15 hours to navigate. There the Lhotse face raises at 40-45 degrees with the occasional 80 degree bulge. Climbers (Sherpa Climbing Guide/Foreigners) Both need to establish a good rhythm of foot placement and pulling themselves up the ropes using their Jumars. Two rocky sections called “The Yellow Band” and “The Geneva Spur” interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face, before reaching the central summit. The route to the true summit is a moderate snow slope and while tired, adrenaline keeps most climbers moving at this point.
The cost is depending on group size, affected due to the requirement of number of guides and porters, requisite of Hotel in Kathmandu, method of land/air transport. The itinerary is changeable and modifiable as per needs and time frame of trekkers. Cost will be re calculated if the itinerary is changed or modified. Additional activities may be added as per trekkers request with appropriate additional cost. For Total Tour cost EMAIL US, we will send you within 24 hours as your requirements.
Why we dont't include cost in our website?NOTE: To provide you service in reasonable cost and attempt to address your each requirement Xtreme Climbers desired to provide you with some information which directly affects the cost and also helps us breakdown the cost. That is why we have decided to clarify our customers that due to the following reasons mentioned below we have not included the cost of each package in the company website.
Climbing season: The climbing permit royalty cost for mountain will be different during Spring and Autumn season. Normally most of the climbers climbs Himalayas in the Spring season. Climbing permit during Autumn will be 50% less than the spring season.
The cost of the trip depends on Number of persons joining in group for High expedition or Mountain Climbing including number of climbers, non-climber, base camp supporters, medical doctors, The number of climbing Sherpa guides, high altitude porters, kitchen crew, mode of transport you prefer and many other factors can affect the cost of the trip. Alpine climbing guide as well as the category of the hotel accommodation and the facilities that you aspire in the mountains affect the cost.
We operate the High Expeditions, Peak Climbing in full arrangement package and basic arrangement service (full board or base camp service) which directly affects the expedition cost.
Request numbers of oxygen, mask regulators and the brands the clients require
The itinerary may be changed after reaching an understanding between the agency and the client. Other activities could be added or reduced as per the client's request before processing the trip. Price for reduced activities could be deducted and additional activities could be added in mutual understanding.
Either you want to operate this expedition as international group joining basics of Xtreme Climbers or individual (private arrangement) expedition.
Type of high camp food that clients require. Any specialized food that has to be ordered from foreign countries will be costlier compared to the one available here.
Either any of the climbers intend to attempt any world records? If so, do they require special services or equipment?
Due to the reasons mentioned above we would like to discuss with our client directly before offering the cost. So please feel free to drop your queries in info@xtremeclimbers.com or login to www.xtremeclimbers.com for any information about your selected package.
The cost is depending on group size, affected due to the requirement of number of guides and porters, requisite of Hotel in Kathmandu, method of land/air transport. The itinerary is changeable and modifiable as per needs and time frame of trekkers. Cost will be re calculated if the itinerary is changed or modified. Additional activities may be added as per trekkers request with appropriate additional cost. For Total Tour cost EMAIL US, we will send you within 24 hours as your requirements.
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is common at high altitudes sickness. In general may occur when people ascend too quickly normally in altitudes of over 3000 m. The symptoms of altitude sickness are due to lower air pressure at high altitudes, which results in lower oxygen levels as you breathe the air in. The air is under less pressure and this makes it harder for your body to get the oxygen out of the air and into the circulation. It's this extra strain on the body that causes altitude sickness.
Symptoms tend to be worse at night and include headache, dizziness, and lethargy, loss of appetite, nausea, breathlessness and irritability. Difficulty sleeping is another common symptom.
Above are normal symptoms which may occur into your body that you should not be worried. Every trekker will experience some or all of these, no matter how slowly they ascend.
When above symptoms will occur into your body, these symptoms usually resolve by spending one or two extra nights at the same altitude or using medicine. Even you are resting at the same altitude or using medicine, if symptoms are becoming worse, then it is necessary to descend.
If above serious symptoms will occur into your body, these extremely dangerous symptoms are called High Altitude Cerebral Edema (or HACE). They can lead to unconsciousness and death within 12 hours. Increasing shortness of breath, cough and tiredness may also be signs of High Altitude Pulmonary Edema or HAPE. HAPE can also be rapidly fatal if ignored.
Following is a list of items you should consider including in your medical kit - consult your pharmacist for brands available in your country.
Note: We have guides trained at the High Altitude Medical Training Center. Our staff is very experienced in dealing with the effects of higher altitudes. As they are natives of Nepal, they easily acclimatize and therefore can care for their clients. They are equipped with necessary medical supplies and will assist you with basic first aid treatment. We design our tours to ensure clients are ready for high altitude, and arrange alternative itineraries for those at risk
Travel insurance is compulsory for all Clients undertaking any tour. It should provide adequate protection for the full duration of the tour to cover personal injury, medical expenses, repatriation expenses, helicopter evacuation, loss of luggage, etc.
For your kind information, we would like to give a list of the insurance companies, please go through the links below:
| Trekking Boot | 1 Pair |
|---|---|
| Thick Socks | 4 Pairs |
| Light Socks | 3 Pairs |
| Camp Shoes | 1 Pair |
| Sandals | 1 Pair |
| Sleeping Bag(4seasons) | 1 |
|---|---|
| Down Jacket | 1 |
| Daypack | 1 |
| Water Bottle | 1 |
| Sun Cream | |
| Sunglasses | |
| Flashlight With Spare Bulbs, Batteries, Lip Salve, Gaiters. |
| Down Or Fiber Filled Waterproof Jacket And Trousers | 1 |
|---|---|
| Fleece Jacket Or Pullover | 1 |
| Warm Cotton Trousers | 2 Pairs |
| Shirts And T-Shirts | 4 Pieces |
| Lightweight Cotton Long Pants | 3 Pairs |
| Long Under Wear | 2 Pieces |
| Short Under Wear | 4 Pieces |
| Sun Hat Or Scarf | 1 |
| Woolen Hat | 1 |
| Sunglasses | 1 |
| Lightweight Gloves | 1 |
| Rain Coat | 1 |
| Heavyweight Gloves Or Mittens With A Waterproof | 1 |
| Insect Repellent |
|---|
| Toilet Articles |
| Note Book & Pen |
| Toilet Roll |
| Laundry Soap |
| Pocket Knife |
| Towel |
| Sewing Kit |
| Plasters |
| Binoculars |
| Camera |
| Film |
| Cards And Personal Medical Kit |
What are some basic Nepali customs that I should know about?
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What time is it now in Nepal and what’s the phone code?
Travelling together in many expeditions throughout the years, we have bonded together as family members. Pemba Sherpa and his team of Xtreme Climbers would be great choice for any kind of journey
With over a dozen ascents of Everest, Panuru is an experienced mountain guide. I recommend Panuru Sherpa and his team Xtreme Climbers for any journey in the Himalayas from the moderate to extreme. He and his team are there to help you fulfill your dreams.
Almost twenty years ago I have met Pemba Sherpa. He was always dutiful and trustworthy. Qualities that nowadays are not often encountered.
I want to thank the entire team of Xtreme Climbers Treks and Expedition for their unconditional support, hard work and amazing aatitudes. Xtreme Climbers and their entire team were instrumental in the sucess og our expedition to climb ans Ski-Lhotse Couloir. The first Ski-Lhotse 8516m Expedition 2018 Autumn.
