Gasherbrum I, also known as Hidden Peak, stands at 8,080 meters (26,509 feet) and is the 11th-highest mountain in the world. Renowned for its majestic yet challenging presence in the Karakoram Range, this mountain attracts climbers seeking both adventure and the prestige of summiting an 8,000-meter peak. While not the most technically challenging of the 8,000-meter peaks, Gasherbrum I remains a formidable climb due to its altitude, weather conditions, and demanding terrain.
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Gasherbrum I, also known as Hidden Peak, stands at 8,080 meters (26,509 feet) and is the 11th-highest mountain in the world. Renowned for its majestic yet challenging presence in the Karakoram Range, this mountain attracts climbers seeking both adventure and the prestige of summiting an 8,000-meter peak. While not the most technically challenging of the 8,000-meter peaks, Gasherbrum I remains a formidable climb due to its altitude, weather conditions, and demanding terrain.
Located on the border between Pakistan and China, Gasherbrum I is known for its severe weather conditions and challenging climbing routes, offering an exhilarating experience for mountaineers. This overview provides a detailed outline of a typical expedition to Gasherbrum I, including the route, acclimatization schedule, and logistical considerations.
The expedition begins from Islamabad, with travel to Skardu both by flight or road. From Skardu, a jeep ride leads to Askole, the last village in the Shigar Valley. A six-day trek through the Baltoro Glacier follows, offering stunning views of the Karakoram peaks, before reaching the base camp.
Climbing Route: The standard route for ascending Gasherbrum I is via the Japanese Couloir and the northwest ridge. Key points include:
- Base Camp (5,000m): Located on the South Gasherbrum Glacier for acclimatization and preparation.
- Camp I (6,400m): Accessed by crossing glaciers and negotiating crevasses, often with fixed ropes.
- Camp II (7,000m): Situated at the top of the Japanese Couloir, involving steep ice and snow climbing.
- Camp III (7,500m): Positioned on the northwest ridge, requiring careful navigation of mixed terrain.
- Summit (8,080m): The final ascent involves traversing a challenging ridge with potential for severe weather.
- Mountain Name: Gasherbrum 1
- Service: FULL BOARD (1:1 SHERPA)
- Country: PAKISTAN
- Duration: 52 DAYS
- Route: The Japanese Couloir
- Grade: HARD DIFFICULT
- Range: KARAKORAM
- Best Season: SUMMER
- Max Elevation: 8080 M.
- Walking Per Day: 5-7 HOURS
- Nature: HOTEL + LODGE + TENT
- Group Size: 2-15 PAX
- Arrival In Islamabad: 15-20. JUNE 202….
- Fly To Skardu: 16-20. JUNE 202….
- Trip Ends: 5-10.AUG 202….
- Easiest Route: Snow/Ice Climb
- Climbing Ratio: 1+1 (1 Member 1 Climbing Sherpa Guide)
- Coordinates: 35°43'27"N 76°41'48"E
- First Ascender: Pete Schoening, Nicholas Clinch, Gil Roberts more.. / 5.July.1958
Gasherbrum I Summit Camp Details
Gasherbrum I, also known as Hidden Peak, stands at 8,080 meters (26,509 feet), making it the 11th-highest mountain in the world. Located in the Karakoram Range on the border between Pakistan and China, it is renowned for its challenging climbing routes and severe weather conditions. Here are the typical details of the summit camps used during an expedition to Gasherbrum I.
Base Camp (5,150 meters / 16,900 feet)
- Location: Situated on the South Gasherbrum Glacier.
- Facilities: The base camp serves as the main staging area, providing tents for sleeping, cooking, and storage. Climbers spend time here acclimatizing and preparing for the ascent.
Camp I (5,900 meters / 19,356 feet)
- Elevation Gain: Approximately 750 meters (2,460 feet) from the Base Camp.
- Terrain: The route to Camp I involves crossing the glacier and navigating crevasses. Camp I is typically set up on a flat section of the glacier, providing a secure resting point.
Camp II (6,400 meters / 21,000 feet)
- Elevation Gain: About 500 meters (1,640 feet) from Camp I.
- Terrain: Climbers face steeper snow and ice slopes on the way to Camp II. This camp is usually set up in a relatively sheltered area to protect against high winds.
Camp III (7,200 meters / 23,622 feet)
- Elevation Gain: Approximately 800 meters (2,625 feet) from Camp II.
- Terrain: The ascent to Camp III involves navigating through steep ice slopes and crevasses. Camp III is set up on a flatter section of the mountain, serving as a critical acclimatization and resting point before the summit push.
Summit Push
- Elevation Gain: About 880 meters (2,887 feet) from Camp III.
- Route: Climbers typically start the summit push in the early morning to take advantage of more stable weather conditions. The route involves navigating steep snow and ice slopes, with the final ascent to the summit requiring careful attention to changing weather and snow conditions.
General Considerations
- Weather: The weather on Gasherbrum I can be highly unpredictable, with strong winds, heavy snowfall, and rapidly changing conditions. Accurate weather forecasts and careful planning are essential.
- Acclimatization: Proper acclimatization is critical to avoid altitude sickness. Climbers spend several days at each camp, making rotations up and down the mountain to aid in acclimatization.
Technical Skills: Climbing Gasherbrum I requires advanced mountaineering skills, including ice climbing, crevasse navigation, and high-altitude survival. The climb is less technical than some other 8,000-meter peaks but still demands a high level of expertise and physical fitness.
- Summit Achievement: Reach the peak of Gasherbrum I (8,080m), one of the world's highest mountains.
- Remote Beauty: Experience the pristine, remote environment of the Karakoram Range.
- Stunning Views: Enjoy panoramic vistas of K2, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrum massif.
- Technical Climb: Engage in a challenging ascent that tests advanced mountaineering skills.
- Cultural Immersion: Interact with local Balti communities and explore Pakistani culture.
- Baltoro Glacier: Trek through the breathtaking Baltoro Glacier, one of the longest outside the polar regions.
- Base Camp Experience: Enjoy the camaraderie and adventure of life at base camp.
- High-Altitude Expertise: Enhance your high-altitude climbing techniques with acclimatization rotations.
- Unique Wildlife: Encounter rare high-altitude wildlife in a pristine natural setting.
- Prestigious Achievement: Add a significant milestone to your mountaineering career by summiting an 8000-meter peak.
NOTE: Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II can be combined and climbed in a single season.
Required Experience: Experience in mountaineering (6000 m. /7000 m. /8000 m.) is recommended and required to sign up for this expedition.
- ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by private vehicle.
- HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN ISLAMABAD:
3-night hotel in ISLAMABAD (4-star category) - single room on bed and 5 nights hotel in Skardu on Bed and Breakfast plan. - WELCOME DINNER: One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in ISLAMABAD with Office supporting Staff.
- CARGO CLEARANCE: Assistance for cargo clearance in Pakistan’s Customs, clearance cost is subject to a charge.
- CLIMBING PERMIT / GARBAGE MANAGEMENT: Expedition Royalty and a permit fee of the PAKISTAN Government to climb Gashebrum, for members and Sherpa / Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
- LIAISON OFFICER: 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
- INSURANCE (MEDICAL AND HELI RESCUE: Medical & Emergency Heli rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese / Pakistani staff during the trek and expedition including Climbing Sherpa.
- MAP: Trekking and climbing map.
- DUFFLE BAG: One XTREME CLIMBERS Expedition to each member joining the expedition.
- MEMBER TRANSPORTATION: (Domestic Flight) Fly from Islamabad to Skardu and way back from Skardu to Islamabad, as per itinerary, along with one guide.
- LAND TRANSPORTATION (MEMBERS): Drive by jeep Skardu to Askole and on returning Askole to Skardu.
- LAND TRANSPORTATION (STAFF): Islamabad to Askole via Skardu (by bus/jeep) for all climbing Sherpas and expeditions staff. (Members and staff will meet each other in Skardu).
- EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION: All necessary expedition equipment transportation for all Members and Staff from Nepal to Pakistan (by air cargo) – Islamabad to Askole (by truck/jeep) and Base camp (by Porters/mules) – While returning: Base camp to Askole (by porters/mules) and Askole to Islamabad (by Truck/jeep). Based on the condition, different transportation variants may be adopted.
- MEMBER LUGGAGE: Up to 60 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters or Mules.
- FOOD AND LODGING: 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/TENT during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and green vegetables, meat, fruits, soft drinks, and juice will be served during the entire expedition. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
- CAMPING: All necessary logistic arrangements for Camping during the trek.
- PORTER: Porters per member up to the basecamp and from the basecamp (both ways).
- BASE CAMP STAFF: Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
- BASE CAMP COOK: 1 Nepalese and 1 Pakistani well-trained cook for the team.
- STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE: All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
- BASE CAMP TENT: Each member will have an individual box tent in Base Camp.
- BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT: Single Tent, foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dining Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staffs Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tent, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gear.
- HEATER: Heater at base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.
- SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT: 1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, FOR battery charges, laptop, and other electronic devices.
- TRAINING: Oxygen, Mask Regulator, Ice wall, and Ladder training at Basecamp by UIAGM Guide.
- HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA: 1 veteran and government-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.
- ASSISTANCE: Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.
- CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE: Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing
OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2): Summit Oxygen cylinder 10 Total bottles): 3 oxygen bottles (4 liters) for each member and 2 oxygen bottles for each high-altitude Sherpa. ** - OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR: 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks & regulator for each member and high-altitude Sherpa. **
- BACK UP: BACK UP Oxygen Cylinder, mask, and regulator (SUBJECT TO A CHARGE).
- HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS): High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) & (C3). Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
- HIGH ALTITUDE TENT: Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).
- ROPE FIXING TEAM: The team of experienced Sherpas (including personal Sherpa) will fix the route to the summit of Everest (no extra charge will be applied to members).
- SATELLITE PHONE: Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members (SUBJECT TO A CHARGE).
- WALKIE-TALKIE: WalkieTalkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
- PERMITS: Satellite Phone/walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
- WEATHER FORECAST: Weather forecast report regularly from Meteotest, Bern (Switzerland) during the entire expedition.
- MEDICAL KIT: Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
- CERTIFICATE: GI climbing certificate issued by PAKISTANI ALPINE CLUB (after climbing Gasherbrum I successfully).
- AIRFARE: International flight airfare (from and to Islamabad).
- PAKISTAN ENTRY VISA FEE: PAKISTANI Visa Fee for 90 DAYS.
- LUNCH & DINNER: Lunch & dinner during the stay in Islamabad and Skardu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
- EXTRA NIGHTS IN ISLAMABAD & SKARDU: Extra nights’ accommodation in Islamabad & Skardu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, or domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
- INSURANCE POLICY: Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high-altitude rescue & air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory
- PERSONAL EXPENSES: Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Islamabad & Skardu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).
- PERSONAL CLIMBING
- EQUIPMENT: Clothing, Packing Items, Bags, Personal Medical Kit, and all kinds of Personal Trekking / Climbing Gear.
- TOILETRIES: Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
- FILMING: Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
- INTERNET SERVICE: Not included during the trek.
- SUMMIT BONUS: Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa- Minimum 2500 USD per person.
- TIPS: Calculate some tips for basecamp and high camp staff – Minimum 400 USD.
- EXTRA: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary and not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.
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