Trip Overview
Mt. Makalu, The name “Makalu” is derived from the Sanskrit Maha Kala, a name for the Hindu Lord Shiva that translates as “Big Black.” Located in Nepal’s Makalu-Barun National Park and Conservation Area. Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid. The 5th highest mountain in the world is located about 14 miles east of Mount Everest. This mountain range is situated on the edge of Nepal and China and it is an isolated peak. One of the harde...
Mt. Makalu, The name “Makalu” is derived from the Sanskrit Maha Kala, a name for the Hindu Lord Shiva that translates as “Big Black.” Located in Nepal’s Makalu-Barun National Park and Conservation Area. Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid. The 5th highest mountain in the world is located about 14 miles east of Mount Everest. This mountain range is situated on the edge of Nepal and China and it is an isolated peak. One of the hardest and most technical eight-thousanders and it is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. It was first climbed on May 15, 1955, by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French Makalu Expedition led by Jean Franco.
The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock or ice climbing. South East and the Northwest Ridge are the main climbing routes of Mt. Makalu. The 8485m peak typically takes around 55-60 days to climb. Most climbers are able to climb Makalu in both the spring and autumn seasons. However, spring is more suitable for good weather and snow conditions. It is located at the coordinates of 27°53'21'' N and 87°05'27'' E. The approach to Makalu is beautiful and elegant, the Barun Valley provides stunning contrasts where high waterfalls cascade into deep gorges, craggy rocks rise from lush green forests, and colorful flowers bloom beneath white snow peaks. This unique landscape shelters some of the last pristine mountain ecosystems on Earth. Rare species of animals and plants flourish in diverse climates and habitats, relatively undisturbed by humankind. With seven valleys radiating from Mt. Makalu its almost symmetrical four ridges present an incredible symmetrical elegance. Within this wide range of altitudes and climates, the Makalu-Barun area contains some of the richest and most diverse flora and fauna of Nepal. Diverse ethnic communities of Rai, Sherpa, and Shingsawa have inhabited the lower parts of the country.
Mount Makalu is known for its spectacular beauty. Climbing is a highly challenging task and for many years it was not attempted. In the north of the Makalu summit, there is a subsidiary peak known as Chomo Lonzo.
- Climbing any mountain especially 8000m above is tough but highly rewarding as well. So, do prepare yourself Psychologically and Physically to withstand all possible hazards that may come across your path during the mountaineering journey.
- The expedition is EXTREMELY Challenging but worth it. Before the summit push, we will have enough time at the Base Camp where our supremely talented climbing Sherpa guide will train you very well to be in the Himalayas by providing you with all technical know-how and techniques.
- The summit lies at a higher altitude and can cause altitude sickness to anyone attempting the summit push. But proper acclimatization, enough Oxygen which will be carried and reserved at higher camps for emergency use, and support/assistance by our high altitude climbing Sherpa Guide will help you go through to reach the summit of your dream mountain. Above the higher camps, we will always have extra bottles of oxygen in case of emergencies. This is why one must go on an expedition to any of the 7 thousand before heading to any 8000m. This will not only help you gain experience in the high altitude but also familiarize you with all the gears and equipment while handling extremely cold temperatures, gaining great crampon skills on and on the rock, snow, ice, rappelling with a pack on, and using ascenders and jumars on a fixed-line. Along with tolerance at a high altitude, you need strength, endurance, and strong cardiovascular conditioning.
NOTE: Prioritize your training efforts with the following techniques assuming you are in good health and injury-free;
01. Climbing Conditioning: Uphill climbing with a backpack, walking and staircase climbing
02. Strength training for lower body and core
03. Cardiovascular Training: Include both aerobic and anaerobic workouts with and without
pack-weight
04. Flexibility Training: Include stretches for overall body
Trip Facts
- Country / Departure From: Nepal /Kathmandu (KTM)
- Location / Himalayan sights: Mahalangur Parbat / Everest, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga
- Transportation / Trip Duration: Car, Flight, Tourist bus / 48 days (typically)
- Highest Access / Climbing route: 8485m (27,838ft) / South East Ridge/ Northwest Ridge
- First Ascent: J. Franco's French Expedition. Jean Couzy and Lionel Terray. 1955
- Grade / Coordinates: PD+ Scottish Grade III/IV / 27°53'21''N / 87°05'27''E
- Accommodation / Meals: 3* to 5* hotel B/B plan As per clients request in Kathmandu. B,L,D during the trekking and climbing periods
- Major Activity / Best season: Trekking/Mountaineering / Late spring (traditionally less hazardous) and autumn
- Culture / Include Activity: Rai/Sherpa / Scenic flight to Tumlingtar
- Mode of Travel:Tea House / Camping
- Group Size / Fixed Departure: 01-10 persons per Group / Date: 14 April 2024
- Type of Service: Service Full Board Service
- Climbing Ratio: 1+1 (1. Member 1 Climbing Sherpa Guide)
Trip Highlights
Makalu South East Ridge: Makalu Advanced Base Camp (5600M/18,372ft) is located on a rocky moraine with amazing views of the Himalayas. Our (Xtreme Climbers) advance base camp will be set up for almost a month. On an 8000m expedition where climbers spend most of their time at base camp, We establish our camp at a walking distance between different groups and with a strategic view of the Makalu massif. We provide each member their own personal high-quality VE-25 North Face tent, The Dining tent will be a common area for group gatherings and chitchat for members, as well shower and toilet tent. By the day and time of your arrival at base camp it will already be fully established by our Base Camp Staff and Climbing Sherpa Team with the required facilities of warm welcome HOT Juice, Soup, Popcorn and other snacks available immediately after the welcome greetings. We will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck before the climbing period which represents safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.
Base Camp (4,800m / 15,750ft):
- Located at the foot of the mountain, Base Camp is the main logistical hub.
- It serves as the acclimatization and preparation point for the climb.
- Facilities include tents for sleeping, dining, and medical services.
Advanced Base Camp (ABC) (5,700m / 18,700ft):
- Situated at the foot of the Makalu La, ABC is an important acclimatization stop.
- The route to ABC involves navigating through glaciers and moraines.
- Climbers spend time here to acclimatize before moving higher.
Camp I (6,100m / 20,013ft).
- Positioned on the Makalu La, Camp I involves climbing steep ice and snow slopes.
- Fixed ropes are often used to navigate this section safely.
- This camp serves as a critical acclimatization point.
Makalu Camp 1 (6400m/21,000ft)3-4hrs: Camp 1 is divided into two sections, lower camp 1 and upper camp 1, the distance between the two is 100m/328ft. So camp 1 is fixed between 6400m-6500m. After basic and advanced training by your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp 1 which is at a height of 6400m/21,000ft. Prior to the first section of the glacier, you will encounter grassy slopes, rock slabs, and moraine. Once on the glacier, you will encounter mixed terrain including a few crevasses and 200m of blue ice. The first section of climbing on the moraine takes about an hour. After that you reach the crampons point at the mouth of the glacier, the glacier portion takes about 2-3 hours.
Camp II (6,600m / 21,650ft):
- Located on a broad plateau, Camp II provides stunning views of the surrounding peaks.
- The journey to Camp II involves technical ice climbing and crevasse navigation.
- It is an essential stop for acclimatization and rest.
Makalu Camp 2 (6800m/22,310ft)2½hrs: Climbing from camp 1 to camp 2 situated above the snowy terrace.
is considered the moderate technical section on Mt. Makalu. During this section, you encounter the heart of ice and snow. The first section is slogging over snow for about an hour, and then you encounter several steep sections of ice, there are small sections of ice fall that can be crossed with the support of fixed ropes, a few big steps, and some steep snow climbing. For most people, this is the crux of the route. This section will take slow climbers about 3-4 hours.
Camp III (7,400m / 24,280ft):
- Situated below the final summit ridge, Camp III is a high-altitude camp that prepares climbers for the summit push.
- The route to Camp III includes steep and exposed sections requiring fixed ropes.
- Climbers typically rest here briefly to acclimatize and prepare for the final ascent.
Makalu Camp 3 (7450m/m/24,445 ft)4hrs: Distance from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is the longest section of the route which does not require any ladder, it extends 600m/1,968 ft. but there are a few crevasses that are roughly a half meter long that need to be jumped. The main ropes will be fixed by a Climbing Sherpa team. This section feels easier, but still, it should not be taken lightly. The climbing is on sustained slopes and there is exposure to cold and wind. Although in spring there have been reports of direct sun hitting this section making it feel very warm. This is the camp that 40% of climbers plan to do their summit push from. However, Xtreme Climbers always fix camp 4 before the summit so that clients can get a half night's rest. This section takes about 3 hours for normal climbers and 4-5 hours for slower and first-time 8000m climbers.
Camp IV (7,800m / 25,590ft):
- Known as High Camp, Camp IV is the last camp before the summit attempt.
- Located on a narrow ridge, it offers minimal protection from the elements.
- Climbers usually spend a short time here to ready themselves for the summit push.
Makalu Camp 4 (7900m/25,918ft): Camp 4 will be set up right above Makalu la. Our team makes an easy traverse to camp 4 at 7,900m which allows you to have a shorter summit day. The distance from camp 3 to camp 4 can be a bit short but now you are near the death zone. The oxygen levels are very low at this altitude so it is expected that any effort no matter how minimum or trivial will feel arduous. In this section, you have to climb for almost 3-4 hours on steep snow that is on a 55º Slope. This section is a bit dangerous during autumn because the snow slope covers a layer of ice which makes the section avalanche prone. That is why Xtreme Climbers only operates during the spring season. Many consider the crux of the T route to be the Seignior Wall which will be crossed here.
Summit (8,485m / 27,838ft):
- The final ascent from Camp IV to the summit involves steep snow and ice climbing.
- Climbers aim to reach the summit early in the morning to avoid afternoon weather changes.
- After summiting, climbers descend back to Camp IV or lower camps for safety.
Makalu Summit (8485m/27,838ft)-16-17 hrs: During this time most of the climbers begin their summit around early 11:00 pm. That's because the summit is the main goal during the climbing period and they reach the summit between 6-10am. Below the main summit is a false summit, the main summit is reached via an exposed ridge. It takes about 4-5 hours to return to Camp IV from the summit and another 2 hours to get to Camp III for an overnight stay. Climbing is not technical in the early part as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls. The climb passes the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge to the true summit for a spectacular view of the mighty Himalayas. To reach the summit of the 5th highest mountain in the world Xtreme Climbers Climbing Sherpa guides will fix Ropes, break trails and make every effort to assist our valuable members.
Xtreme Climbers Makalu Climbing Expedition includes the entire necessary personal high-quality tents for clients, Kitchen, Dining including toilet facilities Tents including Hot meals at camp with the best possible facility at camp. We provide you each member 1 personal highly and technically experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide (Everest and Makalu Summit) who will set up Camp 3 and Camp 4 including High food provisions, fuel, and oxygen, and he will help and assist you to reach the summit on the world's one of the hardest and difficult Mountain. For the safety and communication of our valuable members, Xtreme Climbers will provide the Climbing Sherpa with appropriate long-range radio communication to Camp 2, 3, and 4 and the climbing route as well at B.C so we get each second movement during climbing.
General Notes:
- Each camp is strategically positioned to aid in acclimatization and manage the technical challenges of the climb.
- Weather conditions and individual acclimatization rates can affect the duration of stays at each camp.
- Safety measures include setting fixed ropes, using supplemental oxygen, and having contingency plans for emergencies.
- The climb is known for its technical difficulties and objective hazards, requiring meticulous planning and preparation.
Climbing Mt. Makalu is a demanding and rewarding endeavor, requiring both physical endurance and technical climbing skills. Successful climbers experience the thrill of conquering one of the world's highest and most challenging peaks.
Itinerary
Route Map
Cost includes
- Transportation: Required necessary arrival and departure transfer services to and from both Domestic and International flight as per itinerary.
- Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu: 4 Nights 4****Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
- Permits: Required necessary Expedition Royalty and climbing permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Makalu (8485M). Trekking Permit (Makalu Barun National Park entry fee). TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System) including Nepalese Government Royalty and fees.
- Trekking / Climbing Guide: Experienced and government-licensed high altitude / Trekking guide during the trekking and climbing period.
- Flight Transportation (Domestic): Required necessary Flight Transportation from the Kathmandu-Tumlingtar-Kathmandu sector to all climbing members, Sherpa guide, liaison officer and kitchen staff.
- Camps Tent and Equipment: Required necessary High-Quality VE-25 North Face Tents for camps 1, 2, and 3 Shovel, Rope, EPI Gas, Gas Burner (MSR Rector), High Food etc for members and staff. Required necessary High quality Trekking and Mountaineering equipment such as: Kitchen, Stores, Dining and Toilet Tents, Cooking utensils and Tables, and Chairs for advanced base camp and camp II.
- Tents at Base Camp: Individual VE-25 North Face tent for each expedition member available in the ABC.
- Climbing Equipment: Necessary Common climbing equipment (necessary fixed and main rope, ice bars, ice screws, snow bar, etc)
- Maps: Trekking and Climbing map of Mount Makalu.
- Base Camps Assistant: Professional Cook and kitchen assistant at base camp.
- Meals and accommodation during Trekking: 3 meals a day: Breakfast, lunch and Dinner with tea/coffee available at the tea house/hotel/lodge during the trekking.
- Above Base Camp: 3 fresh meals a day: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner will be served at the advanced base camp. And required high food and fuel for base camp and the higher camps during the expedition for both members and crew as required.
- Expedition Baggage: 50. kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period, this will be carried by porters.
- XTREME CLIMBERS Equipment: Xtreme Climbers 120.ltr Duffel bags for each expedition member and for trekkers (2 members 1 Duffel Bag) Sun Hat and Mask will be provided.
- Weather Report: Daily weather report services
- Highly experienced and Technical government licensed Climbing Sherpa Guide (Everest summiteer and Makalu Summiter) per client.
- Insurance, Wages, and Equipment: Equipment, medical and accidental Insurance for all involved staff in trekking and expedition including their wages.
- Liaison Officer: Equipment allowances and wages for government L.O.
- Communication: Satellite phone carried by Guide for communication and available for members at a cost of $ 3 USD per minute.
- Emergency Oxygen, Mask, and Regulator: Emergency oxygen, mask, and regulator are provided upon request of the client with appropriate charge.
- Solar panel / Generators / Heater: Solar panels for light and battery charging and Heater will be provided at base camp for heating the dining room.
- First Aid: First aid medical kit for the group and the staff.
- Oxygen / Mask / Regulator: 3 Bottles (Summit Oxygen) will be provided to each member and 02 bottles for each climbing Sherpa Guide with the latest model of Summit or mask and regulators.
- Medical and Emergency Rescue evacuation: Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude climbing Sherpa guide, Cook, and staff.
- At C2 and camps above: Fresh cooked food and kitchen will be provided at camp 2. For the camps above EPI Cooking gas stoves, Cooking sets, and high food will be provided in camps one, three, and South Col for cooking food, and boiling water.
- Summit Certificate: Makalu summit certificate after the successful ascent over the mountain.
- Farewell Dinner: Farewell Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant hosted by XTREME CLIMBER’S in Kathmandu.
- TAX and Service Charge: Our minimum service charge and Government Taxes are levied in Nepal.
Base Camp Service Cost Included:
- Required necessary arrival and departure transfer services to and from both Domestic and International flight as per itinerary.
- Assistance at the International Airport by Satori Adventures while arriving and departing in Kathmandu.
- 4 Nights 5*****Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
- Experienced and government-licensed high-altitude trekking guide during the trekking and climbing period.
- Required necessary Flight Tickets from the Kathmandu-Tumlingtar-Kathmandu sector to all climbing members, Sherpa guide, liaison officer and kitchen staff.
- Required necessary High quality Trekking and Mountaineering equipment such as: Kitchen, Stores, Dining and Toilet Tents, Cooking utensils and Tables, and Chairs for advanced base camp and camp II.
- Necessary Common climbing equipment (necessary fixed and main rope, ice bars, ice screws, snow bar etc)
- Trekking and Climbing map of Mount Makalu.
- Professional Cook and kitchen assistant at base camp.
- 3 meals a day: Breakfasts, lunch and Dinner with tea/coffee available at the tea house/hotel/lodge during the trekking.
- 3 fresh meals a day: Breakfast, lunch and dinner will be served at the advanced base camp.
- Required necessary food and fuel for base camp and the higher camps during the expedition for both members and crew.
- 50.kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period, this will be carried by porters.
- Required necessary Trekking Permit (Makalu Barun National Park entry fee). TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
- Expedition Royalty and climbing permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Makalu (8485M).
- Nepalese Government Royalty and fees.
- Equipment, medical and accidental Insurance for all involved staff in trekking and expedition including their wages.
- Equipment allowances and wages for Sherpa Guide, Cook, kitchen assistants.
- Equipment allowances and wages for government L.O.
- Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members at a cost of USD 4. per minute.
- Appropriate amount of food for high altitude and at base camp.
- A heater will be provided at base camp for heating the dining room.
- Emergency oxygen, mask and regulator were provided upon request of the client with appropriate charge.
- Individual VE-25 North Face tents for each expedition member are available in the ABC.
- Solar panel for light and battery charging.
- Required necessary High Quality VE-25 North Face Tents for camp 1, 2, 3 and 4 for members and staff.
- Ice fall charges by SPCC
- First aid medical kit for the group and the staff.
- Sherpas Guide tents, food while staying at B.C, and their insurance.
- Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude Sherpa guide, Cook and staff.
- Free assistance service for cargo clearance and duties.
- Fresh cooked food and kitchen will be provided at camp.
- Generators will be provided for back- up of lighting power and charging electronic tools.
- Transportation of food supply to Base Camp from Kathmandu to Makalu B.C.
- Complete pre-departure information
- Flight ticket reconfirmation (If needed)
- visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
- Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with a domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
- Our service charge and Government Taxes are levied in Nepal.
Cost Excludes
- Airfare of international flights.
- Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance on arrival in Kathmandu)
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the Welcome and Farewell dinner)
- Items of a personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips.
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria bars during the trekking.
- Extra transportation then displayed in the itinerary program.
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc.
- Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
- Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Personal climbing gears.
- Walkie-talkies & Filming permit (if special camera or walkie-talkies).
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
- Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Camera/Video Fees or Trekking Gears
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods.
- Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa Guides as per Mountaineering Association rules. Minimum USD 2000.00 per climbing Sherpa guide.
- Tips and gifts for base camp and high altitude trekking and climbing staff.
- Any extra services or products or offers or activities that are not mentioned in the itinerary or any other item not included in the “Cost Included” section.
- Airfare: Airfare of international flights
- Nepal entry visa fee: Nepal Visa fee of USD 40 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (USD 100). (Visa insurance is easy upon arrival)
- Nepal Custom Duty of Import Equipments: Nepal custom duty for the import of expedition equipment
- Extra (Air/Land) Transportation Services: Transportation services include only what is listed on the itinerary. Any extra distance traveled will be appropriately charged
- Climbing Sherpa Guide /Additional Staff: Climbing Sherpa Guide Or any additional staff other than those specified if the company provides BC service only.
- Personal Climbing gear, high camp meals, and equipment: Any personal Climbing gear and high Camp meals and equipment required during climbing above Base Camp.
- Member’s Medical / Heli Insurance: Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization, and emergency rescue evacuation expenses
- Medical or Emergency Heli Rescue Insurance: Travel/ Medical or any emergency Heli Rescue evacuation insurance.
- Filming / Drone permit: Filming or Drone permit (if you have a special camera)
- Internet Service: Internet services are not included in this cost.
- Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet, battery recharge, Hot shower, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages & soft drinks (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will serve all kinds of beverages for members in base camp), and also Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
- Summit Bonus: Summit bonus minimum USD 2000.00. per climbing Sherpa guide
- Extra Night and Meals: Any extra Night and Meals during your stay in Kathmandu or during the trip than the scheduled itinerary Or any other expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones, and internet expenses, Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking gear Or any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates.
- Tips: Calculate a minimum of 10% of the total trip amount for Supporting staff and Base camp staff.
- Extra: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary Or any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations or any other item not listed in the “Cost Includes” section
Fixed Dates
| Date | Status | Group Size | Action |
|
49 Days
Start - 2025-04-09
End -2025-05-28
|
Booking Open | 10 PAX |
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