Trip Overview
Located in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan Nanga Parbat, the 9th highest mountain in the world at 8,126 meters (26,660 feet) above sea level, is known for its challenging climbing routes and treacherous conditions. The Naked Mountain is the anchor peak of the Great Himalayas is the second-highest peak in Pakistan. It has a bad connotation of the ‘Killer Mountain’ prompted the name because after Everest and Annapurna, this peak has claimed the lives of clim...
Located in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan Nanga Parbat, the 9th highest mountain in the world at 8,126 meters (26,660 feet) above sea level, is known for its challenging climbing routes and treacherous conditions. The Naked Mountain is the anchor peak of the Great Himalayas is the second-highest peak in Pakistan. It has a bad connotation of the ‘Killer Mountain’ prompted the name because after Everest and Annapurna, this peak has claimed the lives of climbers. Nanga Parbat is counted as the most difficult among the fourteen peaks on Earth that exceed 8000 meters. The first ascent was done by Hermann Buhl of an Austro-German expedition in 1953 just after a few weeks of Everest was climbed by Sir Edmund Hillary. The enormity of this peak rested many memories as famous climber Reinhold Messner described Nanga Parbat's attempt as a landmark in his life experience. There are multiple access routes. Its sheer south flank is also called the Rupal face, which rises over 5000m from the ground culminating in an 8125m ice summit, which is accessed via the Astor Valley. The north of Raikot faces a sheer drop of more than 7000m from the summit to the Indus River forms the world’s deepest gorge can be approached from the Diamir Valley and the Fairy Meadows. For its enormity, it is unparalleled and a challenge for the challengers. This 9th Highest is often referred to as the "Killer Mountain" due to the high number of climber fatalities. Successful ascents require careful planning, experienced guiding, and a strong emphasis on safety.
The expedition begins in Islamabad, followed by a flight or drive to Gilgit. From Gilgit, climbers travel by road to Chilas and then to the village of Raikot, which serves as the gateway to the mountain. A jeep ride from Raikot leads to the starting point of the trek, taking climbers through lush valleys and rugged terrain to the base camp.
Climbing Route. The most popular route to the summit of Nanga Parbat is the Diamir Face. Key stages include:
- Base Camp (4,200m): Located on the Diamir side, this camp is used for acclimatization and preparation.
- Camp I (4,800m): Reached by ascending a series of steep slopes and traversing glacier terrain.
- Camp II (6,200m): Situated on a broad, open area after navigating mixed snow and ice sections.
- Camp III (7,000m): Positioned below the Bazhin Basin, involving a challenging climb through ice and snow.
- Summit (8,126m): The final push to the summit includes negotiating the steep and exposed upper slopes, often requiring fixed ropes and careful timing to avoid the worst weather conditions.
Challenges
- High Altitude: Comprehensive acclimatization is critical to prevent altitude sickness.
- Technical Difficulty: Involves steep ice, snow slopes, and crevasses, requiring advanced mountaineering skills.
- Unpredictable Weather: Known for severe and unpredictable weather, including high winds and heavy snowfall, which can significantly impact climbing plans and safety.
- Avalanche Risk: High risk of avalanches on various sections of the climb, particularly in heavy snowfall conditions.
Trip Facts
Nanga Parbat Summit Camps details typically:
Base Camp (4,200 meters / 13,780 feet)
- Location: The base camp is usually established on the Diamir side of the mountain.
- Facilities: It serves as the main staging area for the climb, providing climbers with time to acclimate and prepare. It typically includes tents for sleeping, cooking, and storage.
Camp I (4,800 meters / 15,750 feet)
- Elevation Gain: About 600 meters (1,970 feet) from the Base Camp.
- Terrain: This camp is often set up after a climb through rocky and icy terrain. It is the first step in the acclimatization process.
Camp II (6,200 meters / 20,340 feet)
- Elevation Gain: Approximately 1,400 meters (4,590 feet) from Camp I.
- Terrain: The route to Camp II usually involves navigating through steep snow and ice slopes. The camp itself is often located in a relatively sheltered area to protect from high winds.
Camp III (6,700 meters / 21,980 feet)
- Elevation Gain: Around 500 meters (1,640 feet) from Camp II.
- Terrain: Climbers face more steep slopes and crevasses. Camp III is typically set up on a relatively flat section of the mountain to allow for rest and preparation for the final ascent.
Camp IV (7,200 meters / 23,620 feet)
- Elevation Gain: Roughly 500 meters (1,640 feet) from Camp III.
- Terrain: The route includes mixed rock and ice sections. Camp IV is the final high camp before the summit push, offering limited protection from the elements.
Summit Push
- Elevation Gain: About 926 meters (3,040 feet) from Camp IV.
- Route: Climbers usually begin the summit push late at night or early in the morning to take advantage of the more stable weather conditions. The route involves navigating through the Bazhin Basin and across the Bazhin Glacier, followed by a final steep ascent to the summit.
General Considerations
- Weather: The weather on Nanga Parbat can be extremely unpredictable and harsh, with high winds, heavy snowfall, and rapidly changing conditions.
- Acclimatization: Proper acclimatization is crucial to avoid altitude sickness. Climbers typically spend several days at each camp, making trips up and down to aid in acclimatization.
Technical Skills: The climb requires advanced mountaineering skills, including ice climbing, crevasse navigation, and high-altitude survival.
Trip Highlights
- Summit of the "Killer Mountain": Reach the summit of Nanga Parbat, the ninth-highest mountain in the world.
- Dramatic Scenery: Experience stunning views of the Rupal and Diamir faces, among the highest mountain faces in the world.
- Technical Challenge: Tackle a highly challenging and technical climb, ideal for experienced mountaineers.
- Remote Wilderness: Explore the remote and pristine regions of the Western Himalayas.
- Cultural Immersion: Engage with the local people and experience the unique culture of northern Pakistan.
- Diverse Landscapes: Trek through diverse landscapes, including lush valleys, glaciers, and rugged peaks.
- Base Camp Life: Enjoy the camaraderie and adventure of base camp life.
- Acclimatization and Training: Enhance your high-altitude climbing skills with acclimatization rotations.
- Rare Wildlife: Encounter unique high-altitude flora and fauna.
- Prestigious Achievement: Add one of the world's most formidable 8000-meter peaks to your mountaineering record.
Itinerary
Cost includes
- ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by private vehicle.
- HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN ISLAMABAD:
3-night hotel in ISLAMABAD (4-star category) - single room on bed and 5 nights hotel in Skardu on Bed and Breakfast plan. - CARGO CLEARANCE: Assistance for cargo clearance in Pakistan’s Customs, clearance cost is subject to a charge.
- WELCOME DINNER: One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in ISLAMABAD with Office supporting Staff.
- CLIMBING PERMIT / GARBAGE MANAGEMENT: Expedition Royalty and a permit fee of the PAKISTAN Government to climb Gashebrum, for members and Sherpa / Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
- INSURANCE (MEDICAL AND HELI RESCUE: Medical & Emergency Heli rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese / Pakistani staff during the trek and expedition including Climbing Sherpa.
- MAP: Trekking and climbing map.
- LIAISON OFFICER: 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
- DUFFLE BAG: One XTREME CLIMBERS Expedition to each member joining the expedition.
- MEMBER TRANSPORTATION: (Domestic Flight) Fly from Islamabad to Skardu and way back from Skardu to Islamabad, as per itinerary, along with one guide.
- LAND TRANSPORTATION (MEMBERS): Drive by jeep Skardu to Askole and on returning Askole to Skardu.
- LAND TRANSPORTATION (STAFF): Islamabad to Askole via Skardu (by bus/jeep) for all climbing Sherpas and expedition staff. (Members and staff will meet each other in Skardu).
- EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION: All necessary expedition equipment transportation for all Members and Staff from Nepal to Pakistan (by air cargo) – Islamabad to Askole (by truck/jeep) and Base camp (by Porters/mules) – While returning: Base camp to Askole (by porters/mules) and Askole to Islamabad (by Truck/jeep). Based on the condition, different transportation variants may be adopted.
- MEMBER LUGGAGE: Up to 60 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters or Mules.
- FOOD AND LODGING: 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/TENT during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and green vegetables, meat, fruits, soft drinks, and juice will be served during the entire expedition. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
- CAMPING: All necessary logistic arrangements for Camping during the trek.
- PORTER: Porters per member up to the basecamp and from the basecamp (both ways).
- BASE CAMP STAFF: Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
- BASE CAMP COOK: 1 Nepalese and 1 Pakistani well-trained cook for the team.
- STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE: All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
- BASE CAMP TENT: Each member will have an individual box tent in Base Camp.
- BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT: Single Tent, foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dining Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staffs Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tent, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gear.
- HEATER: Heater at base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.
- SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT: 1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, FOR battery charges, laptop, and other electronic devices.
- TRAINING: Oxygen, Mask Regulator, Ice wall, and Ladder training at Basecamp by UIAGM Guide.
- HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA: 1 veteran and government-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.
- ASSISTANCE: Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.
- CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE: Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing
OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2): Summit Oxygen cylinder 10 Total bottles): 3 oxygen bottles (4 liters) for each member and 2 Oxygen bottles for each high-altitude Sherpa. ** - OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR: 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks & regulator for each member and high-altitude Sherpa. **
- BACK UP: BACK UP Oxygen Cylinder, mask, and regulator (SUBJECT TO A CHARGE).
- HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS): High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) & (C3). Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
- HIGH ALTITUDE TENT: Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).
- ROPE FIXING TEAM: The team of experienced Sherpas (including personal Sherpa) will fix the route to the summit of Everest (no extra charge will be applied to members).
- SATELLITE PHONE: Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members (SUBJECT TO A CHARGE).
- WALKIE-TALKIE: WalkieTalkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
- PERMITS: Satellite Phone/walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
- WEATHER FORECAST: Weather forecast report regularly from Meteotest, Bern (Switzerland) during the expedition.
- MEDICAL KIT: Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
- CERTIFICATE: Nanga Parbat climbing certificate issued by PAKISTANI ALPINE CLUB (after climbing Nanga Parbat successfully).
Cost Excludes
- AIRFARE: International flight airfare (from and to Islamabad).
- PAKISTAN ENTRY VISA FEE: PAKISTANI Visa Fee for 90 DAYS.
- LUNCH & DINNER: Lunch & dinner during the stay in Islamabad and Skardu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
- EXTRA NIGHTS IN ISLAMABAD & SKARDU: Extra nights’ accommodation in Islamabad & Skardu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, or domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
- INSURANCE POLICY: Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high-altitude rescue & air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory
- PERSONAL EXPENSES: Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Islamabad & Skardu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).
- PERSONAL CLIMBING
- EQUIPMENT: Clothing, Packing Items, Bags, Personal Medical Kit, and all kinds of Personal Trekking / Climbing Gear.
- TOILETRIES: Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
- FILMING: Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
- INTERNET SERVICE: Not included during the trek.
- SUMMIT BONUS: Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa- Minimum 2500 USD per person.
- TIPS: Calculate some tips for basecamp and high camp staff – Minimum 400 USD.
- EXTRA: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary and not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.
Related Packages
Copyright ©2024 All rights reserved | Xtreme Climbers Treks and Expedition - Your Adventure Partner in Nepal